But the bar a variety of regular entertainment, like Ladies’ Night, painting parties, and karaoke. A Wall of Shame testifies to years of participation in the Frozen Bun Run. Raucous fun sometimes permeates the place and its scores of regular customers. But she’s endured far longer, and now turns out a couple of hundred dinners on an in-season Friday night and countless Saturday breakfasts to boat-loving folks seeking to wash away the City’s grime. When asked about the cook,Brunham laughed about her first meeting with Chef Renee, whom she described as seeming too timid to last six months in the rough-and-tumble atmosphere of a bar kitchen. The Rusty Porthole serves customers seven days a week. But the extensive menu provides something for everyone, including breakfast and even a veggie burger. Her only regret is a kitchen too small for pizza. They ran that restaurant together before buying the Rusty Porthole ten years ago. Here she met her husband and eventual cohort, who at the time had a pizza place on the island. Boston might have its mythical Cheers and smiling Sam, but here you have Brunham’s down-to-earth Delta charm to make you feel at home.īrunham told me that she came to Bethel Island twenty years ago. I found myself starting to understand the popularity of the Rusty Porthole. Then a deep chuckle and an extended hand brought me into the presence of co-owner Kimi Brunham. I had no doubt that I had found the right place. Long swaths of rope, life savers which looked as though they had seen genuine service, and lanterns completed the tableau. The theme decor on the walls distracted me: Brass ships, pirate’s skulls with menacing snarls and what I could only assume were bottles of rum. ![]() I didn’t think to ask who Frank had been or why the slough bore his name. The wide windows showed a view of what everyone would tell me was Franks Tract. I had no trouble believing that the dark door would lead to a dockside dive, comfortable and unpretentious. The Missouri Ozarks taught me the promise of anywhere that requires a walk over a little gangplank onto a patio smelling of fish and freshwater. I recognize the universal sign for “Welcome, stranger you’ll soon be a friend.” The descent brought me to narrow streets with familiar sights such as boats and RVs pulled by pick-ups with dusty fenders and drivers who nodded and tipped one hand on the steering wheel. Louis gal first felt crossing the San Joaquin two years ago. I began to climb a smaller bridge with the same sensation of coming home that this St. Suddenly, a sign announced that a left turn would take me there. As I headed east through the traffic of Oakley, I repeatedly checked the broader view on my GPS. How could I still be in the Delta, I asked myself. So perhaps I can be forgiven for my growing confusion as I made that journey in reverse, bound for Bethel Island and the unexpected charm of a small cheerful bar called The Rusty Porthole. Its endless expanse draws the traveler from the suburban sprawl of the eastern edge of the Bay area into the rolling vineyards and gracious curves of the river valley. I was hoping the food was going to be better and the area in general would be more appealing.Kimi and Rob Brunham, owners of The Rusty Portholeįor this transplant from the Midwest, the Antioch Bridge will always signify the long slow sweeping entrance to the north side of the Delta. I think maybe this is a local hang drink spot where people become regulars over the years. Boated just later in the weekend and covered extra outdoor seating was packed. Wait staff could be better and should always bring back your change you may need to track them down. Inside has a rusty kind of charm for an older river tavern. The best part of the restaurant is the outdoor deck with River view while you eat. It not that great and in a clear plastic beer cup with a few olives and a celery. The spicy Bloody Mary raved about in older reviews like it was pretty special. large prawns in a goblet with cocktail sauce. The prawns in the shrimp cocktail for $13 was the better choice with eight. ![]() Two small little fish pieces with decent fries for $16. The fish and chips are not exciting and seemed like the frozen box kind.
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